A day of relaxation

The second day of our tour we pushed a little farther ahead so we could sleep at the hot springs. This meant that day three really was super relaxing. I am still putting the day three itinerary on here but we actually did all of the walking on day two. Day three we hiked around our camp site a little bit but spent most of the day on the bus and the train, which riding on the bus in Peru is an adventure in itself. One lane roads with 4,000ft drops right on the edge. The bus ride was probably the scariest thing about Peru.

Day 3: Cuncani Campsite – Lares Hot Springs- Ollantaytambo – Aguas Calientes

Morning to relax, before our final leg of our trek, so you can sleep until late 7:00 am. Breakfast. At this little village we have the chance to visit the house of our arriero who will share with us how they live in a simple way in deep connection with nature, preserving traditional customs in agriculture, weavings, showing their textile skills from generations past, use of medicinal plants etc. Then 4 hours of easy downhill walk to reach the Lares village, once we arrive to the pools, we can soak in the springs. The village is known for its medicinal hot springs, After our lunch, 3.5 to 4 hours drive in our private transport to Ollantaytambo town, 2-hours train to the town of Aguas Calientes Overnight, Dinner.

Meals: BLD

Accommodation: Hostel Viajeros Aguas Calientes or upgrade option as requested

Maximum Altitude: 3750m/12303ft

Minimum Altitude: 2750m /9022ft

Distance Travelled: approx 6km

Approximate Walking Time: 3-4 hours

My favorite picture from the trip. This is a mom that was working with her child on her back. We saw these moms everywhere. When the baby fell asleep she just turned her sideways on her back and covered her. 

We walked the four miles the day before. We were actually kind of bored hanging around camp all morning. We went on a short little hike that looked down on our camp so we could get some pictures. It was a steep climb on the edge of a very steep cliff. The views were amazing though.

 Looking across the valley there was a dwelling built on the side of the mountain. It looked really cool. I wish we could have actually explored it.

 The view of the valley. The evening before it was so foggy we couldn't see where we had hiked from.

 The last lunch our chef made for us. I was feeling a little better and could actually handle sitting in the food tent. I even tried some of the fried rice.

 This meal had vegetables with eggs, fried rice, potatoes stuffed with beef, fried potatoes, and chicked shish kabobs.

 This is where we ate all our meals. it was nice to have shelter the few times it was rainy. The mornings were also nice because the tent was so warm.

This is a picture of almost our entire trekking group with the porters, chef and our guide. We are missing the female porter who was tending to the mules.

 After our last group picture we loaded the bus and started our journey to the train. The bus ride was through the most amazing valleys. the scenery was gorgeous the side of the cliff was SCARY! We finally made it to the train station.

 The train was really nice. It was comfortable and had lots of windows so we could enjoy Peru.

 Aguas Calientes was our final destination for the night. This is a city that was built specifically for tourists visiting Machu Picchu. It is very small and very crowded. We stayed in a hostel, not a very nice one. Thankfully we had our sleeping bags. The saving grace was that the hostel had warm showers. It felt great to actually wash with soap and be clean.

15,680 ft.....oh my!!!

Hernan woke us up around 5am to prepare for our long hike, I think he woke us up earlier because our group was slower on day one. Amber and I were actually already awake because sleeping in a tent is hard. We packed up our stuff and I hung out in the tent while people had breakfast. My stomach was still not ok and the smell of food was enough to set it off. After everyone ate we started our journey nice and early. We knew it would be a long day especially because of the elevation.

Day 2: Cuyoc – Pumahuanca Pass – Cuncani Campsite

Early wake up at 06:00 am with a cup of coca leaf tea, then a good breakfast with quinua panqueques. At 07:00 am we recommence our trek with scenic views of Chicon, San Juan and Veronica mountains.

 Surrounded by a native forest for a challenging 5 hours climb along a dirt road with some stone steps, in some parts there are zig zag switchbacks toward the Pumahuanca Pass located at 4,580 masl (A sacred Apacheta is a series of piled stones, made by pilgrims as a symbol of gratitude and respect to the Apus),

 Once we get to the pass we honor the top of this mountain with coca leaves as is the local customs. Enjoy the amazing views of part of Moray, Maras and Salineras.

 Then we are ready to descend for an hour along a stone road with a nice view on both sides, arriving to enjoy lunch near impressive lakes by which we rest.

 After our lunch we walk for 2 more hours mainly dowhill and enroute we will meet some local campesinos (people of the local village) in colorful costumes as is traditional with all villages around Lares. Impressive landscape views, mountains, flocks of llamas and alpacas. Cuncani is the major district in the area. Campsite at Cuncani community, located at 3,750 masl where we enjoy Dinner and Camp. Cuncani is also very famous for their textiles produced with ancestral weaving techniques; weavers will offer their work

Meals: B,L,D snacks

Accommodation: Camping

Maximum Altitude: 4580m /15682ft

Minimum Altitude: 3750m/12303ft

Distance Travelled: approx 13km (8.1)

Approximate Walking Time: 7-8 hours

Despite the fact that my stomach felt horrible this was a great day. The morning we were blessed with clear skies and every time we stopped to rest we could enjoy the beautiful views the valley had to offer. I tried to go slow because the guide said that would help me avoid problems with the altitude. My stomach helped slow me down as well. I finally made it to the top, almost 16,000ft. That is the highest peak I have climbed to date and it felt really great. I look at these pictures from on top and I am reminded that I really didn't feel great.

It was fun to accomplish something like this. It was made easier by the fact we only carried a day pack. Bless those porters!

 Unfortunately the weather was cloudy and rainy the entire time we were hiking down. We didn't get any good views of the valley we descended into. We could tell it was beautiful but we didn't get to see it. We did pass a number of Lagoons and some small farms, all of which looked really nice. Our lunch spot was nice because there were actual bathrooms. I was still having stomach issues so I really appreciated that. I still could not go anywhere near the food tent so I sat outside and enjoyed the break. There were some ladies selling Gatorade so I was able to consume some much needed calories.

After lunch we walked through a small farming community to get to our campground. Before our hike Hernan had told us that we could bring treats and give them to the village children as we passed. I am so glad I decided to do this. I got to see a lot of cute Peruvian smiles as I handed out little treats. My favorite was a little three year old girl. I held out a piece of chocolate and her dad put her on the ground and she came running to me. I wish I had a picture. She was such a doll. If I ever go back I would take a bag of suckers to hand out to all the children I saw.

We camped at a really nice hot springs. After a long day of hiking it felt great to soak in the natural hot springs before bed. This camp site was really nice. We slept on grass and it was at a lower elevation so it was easier to sleep.

Day 2 hiking was great. It was a cardio workout for a few hours in the morning and then mostly just downhill after that. It was a bummer that we didn't get any clear shots from the pass but overall it was a great day. I slept great this night, well great for camping!

The trek begins!!!!

I have a bucket list on my phone. Unfortunately it gets longer and longer all the time. Machu Picchu made the list while I was backpacking Europe. I kept seeing photos of it pop up in my Instagram and I knew I needed to do it. I love backpacking, well at least after it is over I love it. I do love the way it allows me to explore and see new places. Seeing Machu Picchu seemed like it would be best via hiking.

Amber and I started looking at prices in January. We soon learned that we were too late to get permits for the classic Inca Trail, a total bummer for me, but that there were some very great and affordable alternatives. After doing research we decided the Lares Valley Tour was a good fit for us. We booked through SAS travel and ended up having a great time.

I copied the itinerary off the SAS website so I have the details!

Day 1: Cusco – Urubamba – Pumahuanca Valley – P´acchayoq - Cuyoc campsite

Our private bus leaves Cusco at 05.40am for a scenic drive through the Sacred Valley, passing through Chincheros and stopping in the town of Urubamba, (2,700 masl) for a brief toilet break and the chance to buy any last minute snacks, water, etc, Small packed breakfast is served here. 

 Departing Urubamba around 07:15, we have a further 20 minutes drive to the beginning of the Pumahuanca Valley, land of the famous white corn crops and the Chicha, the Inca´s favorite corn beer. This is the place where we will meet our horses and handlers, (arrieros), and trek staff.

 All of our required equipment will be carried by mules and horses. 

We commence our hike through this beautiful polylepis qeuñas Valley in the Andes with a gentle switchback ascent on a gravel path from 2,800 mt to 3,600 mt with stunning views of the surrounding valley and mountains.

  
4 hours walk to the Inca complex of Inca–Kancha for a guided visit, and where we stop for our first lunch. Our expert cook will indulge you with delicious Peruvian dishes.

Time to relax or a little nap, Continuing afterward along the way you will be able to observe native trees of qeuñas, eucaliptus, then we reach a small Andean community of P´accha, spectacular mountain landscapes, herds of llamas, alpacas, sheeps and goats. 

Then final 2 hours further we will reach a series of small waterfalls and beautiful campsite named Cuyoc, .. our first campsite at 4,000 masl.

Meals: B,L,D - Snacks

Accommodation: Camping

Maximum Altitude: 4,000m/13123ft

Minimum Altitude: 2,800m/9186ft

Distance Travelled: approx 14km (8.77 miles)

Approximate Walking Time: 7 hours

Day one was an absolutely amazing hike. It was all uphill but our guide kept us at what I would call a pretty slow pace. I was actually really worried about backpacking in a group because I am not in as good of shape as I normally in. About 10 minutes into the hike I realized I was more prepared than everyone in our group, except Amber. We both hike a ton. I loved our group. We had our guide Hernan, Nahid from Bangladesh, Tiffany a NP from LA, Mike a medic in the Canadian military, Lord a EMT form Canada, and Amber and myself. Amber and I had the most hiking experience and had done the most hiking recently. We also felt great because we are used to having to pack all of our gear. It was so nice to hike such a long distance with a small day pack. The first day the hike was all uphill. Many members of our group struggled with the elevation as well as the physical exertion. The guide and myself actually ended up carrying backpacks for two of our group members because they were really struggling. The scenery more than made up for the difficulty of the hike. The lares valley was absolutely breath taking.

The valley we hiked through was surrounded by the most magnificent peaks. They seemed so high but as we hiked up and up we got really close to them. We passed through rural villages that live the same way they have for hundreds of years. We saw small gardens and herds of llamas and sheep.

We learned that it costs money to use the mountain bathrooms and that you have to always have your own toilet paper. We were also hiking close to another tour company and so it was fin to meet some more new people and switch places along the trail. 

I stumbled into camp after a long day on the trail and smelled the food and realized I was going to be sick. Not just a little sick but really sick. I spent the night going the bathroom and throwing up. Definitely not how I wanted to start my trek but thankfully it was somewhat manageable. It did make for a long cold night. I have never had my stomach so angry at me in my entire life. I am not sure what caused it. Luckily Amber had brought an antibiotic for travelers diarrhea and I was able to start that the next day.

I skipped dinner and climbed in my tent and suffered through the night. After I threw up twice I finally was able to get a little sleep. Day one of hiking was really magical and we were blessed with beautiful clear skies.